Surfing USA

So I’ve taken up surfing. The sport seems to be mandatory here in California, so I figured it’d give it a shot. And of course the title “surfer chick” doesn’t sound to bad either! So a while ago now I tried it. K’s sister’s boyfriend’s sister’s boyfriend (yes that is not a grammatical mistake) is from here in San Diego (and lucky for us a surf instructor!) and he gave us a 3 hour surf lesson (connections are the best!). It. Was. AWESOME! I absolutely loved it. I’d done it twice before during my round-the-world trip in 2009 – once in Australia and once in South Africa. Even though that felt like so long ago, I guess it was like riding a bike. Not to brag (I just can’t help it cause I was so proud!), but I stopped counting how many times I’d gotten up on the board when I passed 7 (that was my Australian record…) So the first time felt like quite the success. I had to get a board. K’s sister’s boyfriend’s sister’s boyfriend told us that the best place to buy the foam surfboards (the beginner ones, we don’t want to flatter ourselves) is at Cosco. It’s this giant mega superstore that apparently has EVERYTHING – including a $100.000 diamond necklace!! You have to be a member though (again, it’s all about the connections!) – but luckily my family and I have a friend here in San Diego that was nice enough to take us there. So K and I got surfboards. Unfortunately the weather turned bad right after, and then it was a full moon (which apparently means the waves act weird? something to do with the tide I guess..)

Anyway it took me a few weeks to get an opportunity to use the board, but eventually I did. And lately I’ve been getting out whenever I feel I have the time. Some days are not so good. The waves might be acting weird or I just simply might have a day where I’m not doing my best. And them some days are crazy fun! This week I decided to go out in the water by myself because none of the others had time. The first thing I saw when I got down to the beach was perfect even waves. They were rolling in in predictable intervals and they weren’t too big. My kinda waves! I paddled out and when I had almost gotten to where the other people were catching waves I saw a dark shadow in the wave in front of me. My heart skipped a beat as my first thought was “SHARK!”, but then a beautiful looking dolphin jumped out of the wave, turning and playing. It was such a moving sight and I was instantly filled with certainty that this would be a very good day. And it was. I got up about 9 out of 10 times (success!). I hope I’ll get more of these days, cause in that moment, just a few minutes after seeing a dolphin up close, when I was standing up on the board riding a wave almost all the way to the beach, I felt pretty damn happy.


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